It wasn't big enough for the peak to be breaking. Clear water, sunshine made for a great day in the water. I was surfing with my brother who is able to raise the "fun meter" better than anyone. We had been catching our share of waves and laughs. We decided to paddle over to another break. I had just popped up on the other side of a wave after duck diving. Swinging my head back in order to get the saltwater out of my eyes I look up to view a professional surfer cruising just feet from me. He had caught a wave on the outside and smiling like a kid, drives down the line and then kicks out. Now we are sitting in the line up with my brother, the pro and his friends, enjoying the fluid of wet energy.
If I mentioned the pro's name you would recognize him. You have seen him in surf movies and in the magazines. Surfing is the only sport where you can be on the same "field" as the professionals. You are not going to run into a professional golfer while playing 18 holes at your local course. Do you think that you would ever meet a NBA player at your local YMCA and get the chance to play on the same court? Not even! Would any of these high dollar paid professionals even let you play on the same field with them?
The pro surfer doesn't own the ocean, even though they respect it and take care of it like they do. Everyone having fun. Sharing the ocean. Yes, they are better than me by a mile. It doesn't mean that I am having less fun than the pro.
I am a nobody. Nothing I have done gets my picture in the magazines or on film. Even so, may I never think too highly of myself that I can't share the joys of life with others. Yes, there are a few things that I can do better than someone else, doesn't make me more valuable or important.
The only sport where you and I can play where the pros play at the same time that the pros are playing.
A slogan from surf clothing line, "ONLY A SURFER KNOWS THE FEELING".
